The Day

Ten in the morning until the last table leaves.

Most people who book dinner arrive at four. We have stopped being surprised by it — the house is better at afternoons than it lets on.

  1. 10:00

    The rocks

    Swim from the steps cut into the stone below the terrace. Loungers under the tamarisks, towels from the cabana, and nothing asked of you until you want something.

  2. 12:30

    Lunch under the pergola

    Vines overhead, linen on the table, and the long shared plates the kitchen prefers. Service runs until half past three and nobody is hurried out of a chair.

  3. 18:00

    The Bar Cyprès

    Ice goes out, the pastis comes down, and the light starts to go long over the bay. This is the hour the house was built for, and it is open to everyone.

  4. 21:00

    Dinner, and a trio on Fridays

    Dinner runs to eleven. On Fridays and Saturdays a trio plays on the lower terrace — guitar, double bass, someone singing in three languages — until the last table leaves.